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#1 | |||
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Senior Member
Join Date: November 2008
Posts: 408
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An Australian newspaper published a piece today that uses the Vogue Italia editorial featuring three plus-size models as a springboard for a powerful condemnation of the fashion world.
http://www.theaustralian.com.au/new...o-1226080879917 The article suffers from mixed messages, but contains fine denunciations, especially: Quote:
This is entirely true. I looked up the drought photographs to which she refers, and they're absolutely horrifying. ![]() ![]() ![]() What makes these images so disturbing is how closely they resemble photographs of minus-size fashion models. This really is how today's "mainstream" catwalk cadavers look, with skull-like faces and tissue-thin skin barely covering their jutting bones. No exaggeration. Furthermore, the article's writer makes the incontestable case that even if apologists for the industry try to make the clam that today's size-0 skeletons are not dropping dead en masse (although some are indeed dying, and many more are permanently damaging their health), fashion still should not be permitted to foist this toxic standard on the public, because it does ruin the body image of women in general, and lead to eating disorders: Quote:
Interestingly, the author describes how she, on her own initiative, assembled a personal gallery of images of full-figured celebrities to counter to skinniness-brainwashing, but had trouble finding many such celebrities or their photos. This is why plus-size models are so indispensable - they create the pro-curvy imagery that the media refuses to produce. On the downside, the author claims that "scrawniness sells." But for that there is no evidence, because there has never been any society-wide alternative. Without a cross-cultural alternative to the hegemony of thinness, there is no way to claim that curves would not sell, nor that they wouldn't in fact sell better than emaciation. I like her last point about the virtues of so-called "tokenism": Quote:
Exactly. To us, here at the Judgment of Paris, we see the anorexic models for the aberrations that they are, because we see gorgeous plus-size models all the time, who truly are normal. If society as a whole experienced a steady dose of such positive visual imagery, it would come to the same orientation. Seeing the drop-dead gorgeous images of true plus-size models from the collections at Full-Figured Fashion Week has illustrated what the fashion industry could look like, if all runway shows featured lusciously feminine models. It could be an industry of true beauty. Let's hope that we're on the way to having that happen... |
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#2 | |||
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Senior Member
Join Date: January 2010
Posts: 186
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Those photographs are deeply tragic. The writer was right to make such a comparison. Perhaps seeing what emaciation looks like on a poor animal might make some of the people who blithely accept this type of appearance for girls reconsider their passive acceptance of the fashion industry's culture-of-death aesthetic.
I also applaud the writer's dismissal of the "under-sized, empty-figured, curve-less size-8 model." Even given the fact that Australian sizes run one step larger than American sizes do, she is still indicating that a U.S. size 6 is "under-sized, empty-figured, curve-less," which it is. The idea that such skinny models could be passed off as curvy, let alone plus-size, is intolerably offensive. Only true plus-size models, a U.S. size 16 and above, can make any substantial difference in public perceptions. Another article I read recently makes a similar set of arguments, although it's likewise blighted by mixed messages. http://www.independent.com/news/201...and-glam-girth/ It too begins with the Vogue Italia spread as a springboard for the discussion. Quote:
It denounces the fashion industry's anorexic standard and reminds readers that this standard has led to actual model deaths. The author observes that fashion Quote:
The most interesting point, I think, is her final contention. One of the most absurd rationalizations that apologists for the thin-supremacist standard make is that fashion is meant to be "aspirational." Well, this writer makes the very obvious (but surprisingly seldom voiced) point that plus-size models can be aspirational: Quote:
Fashion can be aspirational without triggering eating disorders, and the FFFWeek 2011 runway shows have proved that, once and for all, as the beauty of genuinely full-figured models like Kelsey, Katherine, and Lindsey is far more truly aspirational than the cadaverous appearance of the industry's minus-size famine victims. |
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#3 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: August 2005
Posts: 576
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Further on the topic of the Vogue Italia spread, the British newspaper Metro ran an interview with the magazine's editor, Franca Sozzani, in which she made a number of interesting observations.
http://www.metro.co.uk/lifestyle/86...-not-attractive This passage is the most pertinent: Quote:
Rather commendable words, and since she did put three plus-size models on her magazine's cover and gave them a genuinely beautiful editorial, one cannot dismiss her comments are mere lip service. She has backed up her arguments with real action - the most that any Vogue editor has done for plus-size beauty since British Vogue ran its Sara Morrison editorial in 1998. Where I absolutely DO agree with her is in this principle: "When you want to get a message across, you have to be exaggerated, otherwise people don’t get it." YES! However, I saw nothing in the Vogue Italia editorial that was "exaggerated." Only one model was a 14/16, while the other two were 12s. Far from being "exaggerated," the issue would have done better to feature all size 16s and 18s. Also, there was nothing in the aesthetic of the shoot that was "exaggerated"; rather, it was very classy and elegant (except for the nudity, which in some cases was excessive). But her idea of fighting an extreme with an extreme is absolutely sound. Also, on the issue of model size, when she says that "If [the plus-size models were] dressed, you wouldn’t realise what body they have," that very clearly indicates that the models could have been a bit bigger! If she had used size 18s and photographed them to exhibit their curvaceousness in body-conscious fashions, then, even if they had been clothed, the viewers would have seen "what body they have"! But I don't mean to sound too critical, because except for the fact that the shoot would have been improved by featuring fuller-figured models, it was aesthetically and thematically accomplished, and beautiful - which is rare when the "high" fashion industry shoots plus-size models. |
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